My first spherification

Yes, I know. I'm six years late to be among the cool guys, but who cares? To me it's all about having fun and learning, and then being late is no issue.

As far as I know, spherification and it's related methods were introduced by El Bulli chef Ferran Adrià et al. some time after the turn of century. I has got a lot of attention, and a You Tube search on the term gives quite a few hits on demonstrations of DIY spherification.

The phenomenon is based on using hydrocolloids, that is compounds that can generate gels, mostly with water but other media are also know (oils and alcohol mixtures, that is). A good place to start is Martin Lersch's hydrocolloid recipe collection "Texture". A number of different gelling agents are being used, the most common household substances being gelatin and fruit pectin, the latter often used when making jams and jellies.

In this case I got my hands on some sodium alginate that I wanted to play with. When a mixture containing sodium alginate comes in contact with a calcium solution, the alginate starts to cross-link and a gel is formed. In this case, dripping a alginate-containing solution into calcium chloride generates small beads that are gelatinous on the surface and liquid in the centre. Alginate is somewhat sensitive to the pH, and sodium citrate might be used as a buffer to stabilise the pH at ca. 4-5 (all this information is found in the Textures recipe collection).

Sodium alginate is a polymeric carbohydrate-like compound which is soluble in water. When it reacts with calcium ions, cross-links are formed giving large three dimensional webs that become viscous/gel-like and holds water.


Strawberry spheres in sparkling drink (for lava lamp effect)
(Sparkling Chardonnay or non alcoholic cider are both fine)

Equipment
(immersion) blender
scale (0.1 g precision is needed)
some general kitchenware
disposable plastic pipette (7 ml) or plastic syringe (10-20 ml)
(pH strips)

Ingredients
frozen and thawed strawberries, 200 g
sugar, 25 g
sodium alginate, 1.9 g
sodium citrate¹, 2 g
calcium chloride², 2.5-4 g
water, 500 ml
Sparkling Chardonnay or non-alcoholic drink (i.e. apple cider)

Procedure (see You Tube for informative demonstrations)
For template, the recipe for Melon cantaloupe caviar taken from El Bulli's texturas recipes: The strawberries were blended and mixed with the sugar. pH measured to be ca. 3 (somewhat uncertain since the berries gave some colour to the strips). Sodium citrate was added gradually, stopping at a total of 2 g to get a pH of ca. 4-5.¹ Sodium alginate was added and blended (the alginate partially turned into lumps; should have added the alginate to a small portion, mixed this, and then added the rest. Lots of blending did the trick). The mixture was strained through a sieve. For easier dripping (see below), the mixture was diluted 1:1 with water (the initial strawberry mixture was rather viscous, resulting in oblong or drop-shaped "caviars"). This would of course affect gelation, hence the amounts here are deduced on a try-and-fail basis.

Calcium chloride was dissolved in the water. The strawberry mixture was dripped into the calcium chloride solution, the drops forming small strawberry beads, and left for 1/2 to 1 minute.³ The beads were strained, rinsed in water and added to the sparkling wine or cider.

(Tri)sodium citrate functions as a buffer due to its three carboxylic acid functional groups.


Verdict
The strawberry beads/spheres/caviars tasted good, no detectable flavour from the matrix. Simply strawberry. While mixing, the strawberries turned somewhat greyish. Not surprising, since the colour is an anthocyanin pigment (anthocyanin colours are pH dependent, often bright red in acidic environment and more on the green/blue side in basic conditions).

The reason for using Chardonnay was simply that I found Chardonnay to match well with strawberries at the food pairing database, and that this might be a fun aperitif (although I would maybe not spend money on an expensive wine and then put strawberry in it).

What might be taught

• chemical reactions might occur between chemical compounds
• experimental and cooking skills (weighing exact amounts, diluting etc.)
• dispersions: gels (hydrocolloids) and macromolecules
• pH, acidity and buffers (citrate)
• density (the beads float up together with the CO₂ bubbles, and sink when the bubbles burst)

The procedure is somewhat complicated, and I'm glad I didn't bring the kids the first time. When the table was set, and the solutions were ready, the kids loved dripping the solution making beads. Now I've got some experience, and next time I'll bring them along from the beginning.

Notes/comments
¹ It was difficult to assess the pH correctly, and the amounts of sodium citrate suggested in the textures recipe collection did not (seemingly) have the desired effect. Hence, citrate was added until the desired pH, adding up to 2 g.

² The CaCl₂ must be dry/dehydrated. In my case, it had absorbed moisture from the air and gone all wet (quite hygroscopic). It was in left in shallow bowls in the oven at 150-200 °C stirring occasionally. A couple of hours later, a white crystalline/powdery salt was left.

³ Using 2.5 g CaCl₂ per 500 ml water and leaving the beads 30 seconds in the bath resulted in rather soft beads. Leaving them for one minute gave beads that were solid almost throughout. I wanted firmer beads with a soft interior. Increasing the concentration to 4 g CaCl₂ per 500 ml water did the trick: firm shell, and liquid interior when the beads were left in the bath for somewhat less than a minute.

References
McGee, H.: McGee on Food and Cooking. London: Hodder and Stoughton 2004.
Lersch, M.: Hydrocolloid recipe collection

Christmas dinner trimmings - a hot potato? (part one)

Many a Christmas dinner, we end up with the potatoes falling apart in the dish and pale olive-green Brussel sprouts. Does it have to be like this? Using a little scientific knowledge in the kitchen can help.

Part one - potatoes
In Norway, Christmas dinner is often accompanied, amongst several things, by boiled potatoes and Brussels sprouts. The potatoes are often of a mealy sort, and peeled before cooking rather than after.

Mashed potatoes are a result of the outer parts of the potato being cooked too much before the inner parts are tender. Potatoes contain pectin, the cement which holds the cells together. Pectin is soluble in hot water, and when mealy potatoes are boiled, the pectin dissolves in the water. The cement is gone, and the potato fall apart in it’s separate cells. There is, however, an enzyme in the potato that helps the pectin molecules to cross-link internally, so the pectin stays in the potato. This enzyme is active between 50 and 60 °C. The solution is: leave the potatoes in water at this temperature for 20-30 minutes before heating further up, and your potatoes will not fall apart (use a standard cooking thermometer). But beware; the cooking time will be longer. Cooking bacalhau a couple of weeks ago, I had a fascinating experience (in Norway it goes by the name bacalao. Bacalhau is a Portuguese/Brazilian fish dish, in this case a hot pot with tomatoes, potatoes, onion, clipfish, black olives and olive oil). The potatoes were pre-cooked as described above, peeled and cut in large pieces, and added to the hot pot. After 75 minutes simmering, the potatoes were still not tender, and the guests had to wait another 15 minutes. One and a half hour’s simmering before the potatoes were tender! The potatoes, by the way, kept their shape perfectly even when the dish was reheated.
If you deliberately want the potatoes to fall apart, i.e. to thicken soup, you should do the exact opposite: put the pre-peeled potatoes directly in boiling water.

One problem with such pre-cooking is the off-colour (enzymatic browning). This can be fixed by adding a little acid, a tea spoon of vinegar or some lemon juice, or an antioxidant; a C-vitamin tablet or a tea spoon of pure ascorbic acid does the trick. The acid retards the reaction, while the ascorbic acid (C-vitamin) sacrifices itself in the reaction.

A drawback is that vitamin-degrading enzymes are also efficient at temperatures between 50 and 60 °C, so focusing on texture results in lower vitamin content. For everyday dinner I’d put unpeeled potatoes directly in boiling water to deactivate the vitamin-degrading enzymes, alas deactivating the pectin reinforcing ones as well.

Part two will deal with the Brussel sprouts - how to achieve a fresh green colour rather than a pale olive-green colour. A Norwegian version of this post can be found at www.naturfag.no/mat.

Merry Christmas(-dinner)

Erik

Background info:
McGee, H. (2004): McGee on Food and Cooking – An Encyclopedia of Kitchen Science, History and Culture. London: Hodder and Stoughton.